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圓喜藝術中心-電子報

蘇繡針法介紹─亂針繡

• 發表於 2011年08月號

 
別名:亂針刺繡、蘇州亂針繡、蘇繡亂針繡
亂針繡,又名正則繡,是1930年代由刺繡家楊守玉所創造的刺繡針法,這種針法融合了中國傳統刺繡的技術以及西洋藝術的特色,並受到清末民初沈壽的仿真繡所啟發影響。
 
 
傳統蘇繡中,每一針之間是緊密相接,並且呈同一方向排列,但在亂針繡中,針法長短不一、方向不同且互相交叉,並運用分層、加色的手法,使得在色彩上更為豐富。〝密接其針,排比其線〞的框架,以針代筆,以線代色,運用長短交叉的線條,來表現物體的深度和廣度。

創造者楊京玉除擅長刺繡外,也擅長繪畫,並學習西方繪畫,亂針繡的發明,是在兩幅以西畫為繡稿的作品中產生的。雖說“剪不斷理還亂”,唯〝亂刺繡〞卻是亂中見情理,亂中求統中與變化。亂針繡特別注重色彩效果,比一般刺繡的層次要多很多,其多樣的色彩度,獨特的藝術效果,炫目卻不紊亂。

亂針繡與一般針繡不同,其創作周期特別漫長。每一幅作品耗費的時間十分漫長,如人像繡品就最考功夫了,一繡就需要長達一年以上的時間。

亂針繡產於江蘇省揚州寶應(蘇中),色彩豐富立體感強,但繡線不劈絲,均為兩絨繡,即一根線直接繡。因此遠觀或看照片,感覺立體效果尚可,近看卻頗粗,不耐人回味。風景、人物亂針繡是其強項,但人物的臉部繡制(開相)等細膩的工作,還是交付技高一籌的蘇州本地人完成,此外亂針繡的價格也偏高。

亂針繡是30年代初著名中國蘇繡藝人楊京玉首創。她把傳統刺繡"排比其針,密接其線"的方法創造成以長短參差的直斜、橫斜線條交叉,分層攙色的技藝,繡出人物、風景、靜物、動物。亂針繡的出現,是對我國幾千年傳統刺繡的重大突破,是將西洋繪畫與中國刺繡融為一體的創舉,開闢了向更高美術層次邁進的廣闊前景。亂針繡藝人楊景玉的弟子陳亞先繼承先師的風格,她創作的人像亂亂針繡《幸福老人》,形象鮮明突出,神情愉快,有較強的感染力,人物臉部縱橫的皺紋,鬆弛的皮膚,蓬鬆的銀髮,尤其是飄逸的鬍鬚是整體作品的神來之筆。
 
 
 圓喜珍藏:

 


作品名稱:托鷹女孩

材  質:繡畫
尺  寸:113×151 cm
 

愛與信任,是生命共同的語言,沒有物種的分別,沒有形相的差異,我們都是為經驗愛而來到這裡。

此幅托鷹女孩繡畫由顧曉賢老師所繡製
圓喜藝術中心珍藏

 

 

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